Back-set Offset Row

Back-Set Offset Row
(right) More, Neater

Back-set Offset Row

n. An arrangement for like cans, bottles or other round ITEMS in a HOLE that allows a greater than usual number GO while still maintaining a straight FACE and good BLOCK. See also JAM, MAKE IT GO, PACKING THEORY.

NOTE: Whenever jars or cans slightly overhang the lip, or there's a gap between the BLOCK at the FACE and the rest of the STOCK on the SHELF, or if there's a significant fractional can or jar's worth of wasted space right up at the front, you may have an opportunity to get slightly—sometimes significantly—more PRODUCT up. Just shift a row of PRODUCT three or more rows back from the FRONT sideways, left or right, so that it's “hills” fit into the “valleys” of the row behind it, similar to the way the teeth of two gears mesh. Repeat the offset process as often as necessary to make the first three rows sit flush with the front edge of the SHELF, alternating left and right, and moving backwards towards the back of the HOLE. This compresses the distance between the centers of jars or cans in the offset rows, making a tighter “lattice” and thus more will GO to the SHELF. Candidates? Premium canned soups or tomato PRODUCTS, jars of spaghetti sauce, those little jars of baby food, etc.

TIP: Best Face Forward. Any time you place Back-set Offset Rows, the foremost Offset Row should ideally be at least three or more rows behind the SHELF FACE, so that it's less obtrusive (see where the arrow's pointing to the three highlighted circles in middle of the rightmost illustration pane, above).

Blade

Blades1

Blade

n. 1. A small replaceable, disposable sharp-edged and pointed piece of metal that goes into a BOX CUTTER for the purpose of making CUTS. Also called “utility knife blade.” Blades are trapezoidal, with the base providing two sharp points and a long cutting edge that may be reversed when one end becomes dull. 2. Square, single-edge razor Blades as are used in the push-up style BOX CUTTERS that are frowned upon because they are very unsafe and have an unfortunate tendency to create STORE DAMAGE.

NOTE: The approved, trapezoidal Blades come in two lengths. The longer style is necessary to prevent jamming caused by twisting the Blade in older, longer CUTTERS such as the classic S3. Newer CUTTERS, such as the S4 and later models suffer from no such problems, and can use the shorter (less expensive) Blades.

TIP: Blacken Blades. Before loading new Blades into the handle of your BOX CUTTER, take your MARKER and blacken one end of each Blade on both sides, and put a dot on both sides of the other, unpainted tip. Then, when you load a new Blade, use the silver end with the dot first. Later, after you've forgotten whether the other end of that Blade is sharp or not, look at its back end. Black means sharp and unused. Silver means toss out the whole Blade and get a new one from the cache in your handle. No thinking required!

Block

Block

v. 1. To make PRODUCT on DISPLAY or on the SHELF more visually appealing by pulling several ranks forward to the front edge. 2. To do so for whole AISLES, or the entire STORE. Typically done by NIGHT CREW after they've finished THROWING LOAD. “OK—It's time to start blocking.” Contrast WALL‑BLOCK.

NOTE: There's one good reason to enjoy Blocking: you don't have to HUNT for the PRODUCT or it's HOLE! Thus, with a little practice, you can do it fairly quickly. Everything you need is right there in front of you!

When Blocking the top levels of DISPLAYS on END-CAPS, the FAST-WALL or the EVZ, you may choose to either bring a full rank forward by reaching to its back and pulling everything towards you, or, to lift an ITEM or two from the back rows and place them into the gaps at the front. The determining factor is which way is both faster and neater.

TIP: Block Into Your Hand. Ideally you want Block using both hands at once. However, sometimes it's best to put up one hand as a backstop on the front edge of the SHELF or DISPLAY, and bring PRODUCT forward with the other until you feel it touch. Candidates? Glass jars, or things that are prone to topple forward, like tall, top-heavy or skinny boxes.